Tuesday, October 24, 2006

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

13-15 West St.
London, United Kingdom WC2
020-7010 8600
Visited 21 October 2006,

Came there with my friend Steingo after the Opera at 22.00 last Saturday hoping that the queue for the Atelier was not too long. As the hostess was explaining that the wait was at least 40 minutes a gentleman, who looked suspiciously like Steinbrenner the US Vogue food critic, suggested we try upstairs at La Cusine as he assured us loads of tables had become available. We asked for an upstairs table and got it! Fancy that in one of London’s hottest restaurants.

We had the eight course tasting menu and I was massively disappointed. Much of the food was good but good in a let’s lace this stuff with loads of rich and expensive material kind of way. There was fois grais, truffle and cream over everything and in a tasting menu it was just too much. The highlight for me was an small pre starter that consisted of fois gras mousse, pork reduction and a very light parmesan mousse all layered. Truly inspirational. Other dishes such as the fois gras filled quail where excellent but again not exactly inspirational.

The bill came to 300 quid for two with two bottles of vine so I really was looking to be amazed. Given Robuchon’s reputation and the number of Michelin stars the man has been awarded I think they could have done better.

No comments: